Slow Cloth, Fashion Design, and Garment Sewing
Can fashion fit into the Slow Cloth concept? How about home garment sewing? I say -- absolutely yes to both. While most of the people who have visited and commented and linked to this blog (thank you all so much) are textile artists, there are related and overlapping communities -- people in the fashion and home textiles industries, and people who just love to sew garments and approach sewing from a perspective of craftsmanship, quality, and creativity.
There is art in every craft and craft in every art. As someone who loves garment sewing as well as other textile arts, the only conflict I see is how to best use limited time and resources and not get lost in dilettante-ishness.
On the commercial fashion side, I've been reading up on the Slow Fashion movement as part of my research on the sustainable apparel market. In addition to using environmentally appropriate materials and eliminating abusive labor practices, Slow Fashion also rejects the trend-focused planned obsolescence that has driven the fashion industry for decades. Slow Fashion emphasizes lasting design and craftsmanship, so you can buy fewer clothes with a longer life. Design and color palettes are compatible from season to season, so you can build a wardrobe instead of replacing everything in an increasingly rapid and wasteful cycle. Brand loyalty and quality replace quantity.
Last week, this review of several men's fashion shows appeared in the New York Times. As always, fashion writer Cathy Horyn's analysis is perceptive and intellectually challenging. In "It Never Hurts to Quote the Classics," she talks about designers referencing handcrafts and focusing on craftsmanship while also creating entirely modern garments.
There are no specific shout-outs here to Slow Fashion or sustainable apparel, but throughout the fashion design and garment industry this shift seems to be taking place. Admittedly, it's much less of a stretch to talk about classic design and craft in men's clothing, which has always been less exploitative than women's fashion. But still, it seemed noteworthy.
A little closer to a textile artist's heart is Alabama Chanin, a true Slow Cloth company. From their site:
Here, in Florence, Alabama, quilting and textiles have long been part of our history. So instead of sourcing our manufacturing far away, we have chosen to utilize the skills and knowledge of local artisans, who hand sew every garment. We sew by hand not because we don’t like technology, but because we choose to preserve these living arts. Modern concepts, coupled with old-time stitching techniques, not only strengthen the bond between our past and present; they also have the unique power to create beautiful, one-of-a-kind garments that are infused with care. Despite this nod to the past, our designs are modern; some are sexy, others are modest, all are comfortable and made for living. We use new and recycled materials in a way that showcase quality of cut, attention to detail and the artistry of the hands that created them.
Founder Natalie Chanin previously founded Project Alabama, a company with a similar mission. She sold the company and now Project Alabama products are made in India. But it looks like things turned out all right for Chanin, and her new company looks inspiring.
So whether you're a fashion designer, a dedicated follower of fashion or a home garment sewer, or both, there is plenty of room to incorporate textile traditions and skills, be innovative and forward-thinking, and conscious in approach. There's a lot of inspiration out there. Let me know your thoughts and ideas about this, and have a lovely, creative weekend. I'll be working on my sustainable apparel research and my blogroll . . .

I just found your blog, profound thoughts on handcrafts-I haven't met this for a long time.
I am a quilt designer from Germany who wishes to preserve the art of quiltmaking and handquilting.the art of slow cloth- making a quilt from inventing, cutting, joining fabrics to a surface and eventually quilting is a process I rejoice in. it is a kind of meditative process in which you can grow personally too.
will come back. Christiane
Posted by: Christiane | January 26, 2008 at 04:35 PM