Art Quilts

July 06, 2008

Quilts of Soul, Strength and Scarcity

I saw the exhibition Gee's Bend: The Architecture of the Quilt at the Denver Art Museum yesterday. This is not the same exhibition of quilts that appeared in 2003 at the Whitney Museum, inspiring critic Michael Kimmelman in the New York Times to call them "some of the most miraculous works of modern art that America has produced." Those quilts have since appeared on postage stamps, among other things, and made the Gee's Bend quilting style famous. But the quilters, the spirit and the story are the same.

It's the story that makes these works astounding. From an artistic viewpoint, they are all visually arresting; some are more successful than others. A few quilts are incredibly dynamic, with colors and shapes making an inventive, harmonious whole enhanced by the raw stitching, exposed knots and uneven binding that reveal the maker's hand. Some are more jarring. Most quilt artists today would probably attempt to develop more refined techniques, unless they were self-consciously trying to imitate this style.

But these women, until recently, were not aiming to be quilt artists, selling in galleries and exhibiting in museums, and could hardly imagine that possibility. They were trying to inject some creative salvation into the task of keeping their families warm in lives of the most abject poverty in this great but sometimes unjust country.

The town of Gee's Bend is isolated on three sides by the Alabama River, with limited access on the fourth side. Its residents are African-American, descended from slaves, and historically subjected to every injustice thereof --  a ferry service was shut down in 1962 to prevent the townspeople from registering to vote, not resuming until two years ago, and education and opportunity was minimal at best. In Wilcox County today, almost half of children under 18 live below the poverty line.

The characteristic Gee's Bend quilting style emerged and evolved in this insulated community, passed down through the generations. The quilts are made from used clothes and fabrics, many using a simple Housetop or partial Log Cabin block, others with a more random structure. Fabric pieces tend to be large, or as large as repurposed used clothing (or corduroy scraps from Sears, Roebuck & Co.) would allow, and few of the quilts are squared off; some have binding on one or two sides only; the quilting stitches follow crooked, curved or bending lines and the stitches are big by quilting standards. They were made quickly to be used quickly, for warmth in unheated rooms. Yet the women took the time and had the spirit and imagination to make creative choices, often dramatic and unexpected and playful.

To see these quilts on the walls of an elegant museum gave me some cognitive dissonance, because they reverberate with this story of scarcity few of us could overcome, and strength that most of us would be hard-pressed to find; it's in every stitch. This story is in many patchwork quilts, but it is especially poignant here. It's also a story of joy and creativity and the deep relations that have held this community together.

Today, thankfully, many of the Gee's Bend quilters have benefited from the popularity of the quilts, though there have been some lawsuits regarding payments, intellectual property rights and licensing agreements. I was moved by the story of one woman who stopped quilting for 20 years because of illness and depression, overcome by a life harder than I can imagine. When the Gee's Bend quilts were "discovered" and began to sell and return some benefits to the women, her despondency also began to life, and she was able to stitch again.

A book on display at the exhibition said that she had prayed all her life that her last years would be her best years. She felt that her prayers had been answered.

April 12, 2008

Arte Y Pico Award and Blog Love

premioarteypico.jpg

The lovely Arlee at DesignJournal blog has selected me for an Arte Y Pico award for creativity, design, interesting material and contributing to the blogging community. This is just so nice -- thank you, Arlee. I appreciate it so much.

There are 5 rules attached to this award and they are :
1) You have to pick 5 blogs that you consider deserve this award for their creativity, design, interesting material, and also contributes to the blogging community, no matter what language.
2) Each award has to have the name of the author and also a link to his/her blog to be visited by everyone.
3) Each award winner has to show the award and put the name and link to the blog that has given her/him the award itself.
4) The Award winner and the one who has given the prize have to show the link of Arte Y Pico blog, so everyone will know the origin of this award (blogger in Uruguay).
5) To show these rules.
So now it's my turn to pass this award along to five other bloggers. You may know these already, but if not do visit.
  1. Sara at The Fabric of Meditation. First of all, I'm in awe of anyone who can blog so well in two languages. Second, her work is always a wonderful surprise.
  2. Harmony's The Journey is the Prize blog about organic fabrics and the world of sustainable textiles. Harmony is a highly creative fabric designer, great businessperson, and all-over nice person who walks her talk very gracefully.
  3. Dijanne's Musings of a Textile Itinerant never, ever fails to inspire and move me. She'll probably get this award many times over. Dijanne truly works from the heart and makes you feel like a close friend, though she has many thousands of readers.
  4. Deidre's Abstractions blog -- as noted here, I've been a fan of Deidre's paintings on quilted surfaces for a long time, and now her blog is a chance to learn more about her thinking and process.
  5. Pilar's Deux Frontieres blog is a brilliant journal of culture, art, textiles, design and life in Paris. Ahhhh. In some of my favorite alternate universes I'm living in Paris or London or another great capital of culture and society, but not today, at least not in this dimension of reality -- so I'm thankful for the blogs that take me there.
In other blog news: As I've mentioned, I write posts for EcoSalon.com. EcoSalon has been picked up by the blog aggregator Alltop.com, so I've spent some time using Alltop. They have pages for the top blogs in many topics, including green news and products, fashion, design, art, books, and a new page for crafts where both In A Minute Ago and Spirit Cloth are featured.

Finally, I've added an abbreviated version of my 10 Qualities of Slow Cloth to the sidebar. As promised, I'll begin my series of posts expanding on this list next week.

March 29, 2008

Quiltapalooza: International Quilt Study Center Opens

The new building for the International Quilt Study Center opens Sunday (March 30) in Lincoln, Neb., with an opening exhibition by Nancy Crow. I'm very excited about this (and had hoped to be there this week), as I have a dear brother and my most awesome niece and two supreme nephews in Lincoln.

On my last visit, I sat in on a conversation consisting of two hours discussing the fooIntlquiltcentertball team -- on which the University spends many, many millions of dollars every year -- followed by grumbling about the $12 million in private funds spent on this innovative building. One particular person didn't think anyone would care about quilts, and that the Center wouldn't bring prestige or dollars to Lincoln.

It's unfortunate that the Quilt Center has to be up against this kind of thinking, and I have to say I heartily disagree and I hope this man will be proven very wrong. This is a world-class addition to Lincoln, a brilliant and forward-looking tribute to the Midwest and American quilting heritage, and worth a visit or many; if you're on a cross-country road trip involving Interstate 80, this is where you definitely want to make a stop. Other quilt exhibitions and events are also taking place in Lincoln this week, including a show opening April 4 at the Lux Center for the Arts curated by artist and blogger  Lisa Call with quilts by Lisa, Deidre Adams, and others.

(click to enlarge photo)

February 19, 2008

Pattern Recognition

Sometimes I feel so reckless and wild
Sometimes I feel like a motherless child
I gave nobody life
I am nobody's wife
And I seem to be nobody's daughter
So red is the color that I love the best
It's your Indian skin and the badge on my chest
The heat of my pride
The lips of a bride
The heart of the truth
And the flag of youth
And the blood that is thicker than water
I was born to be telling this story
I am finally telling this story
I will always be telling this story.     -- shawn colvin, the story

Nice to see you again here in cyberspace! I have been a very recalcitrant blogger. I got seriously derailed in the last couple of weeks, in part because of dental issues that aren't going away quickly. Like Acey at SparklingLotusLand, dental situations bring up a lot of early-life issues for me (and I have some doozies) and they never happen at the right time.

I'm also a bit stalled in my efforts to restructure my life since losing my job in late August. It's been some time now, and I have excellent freelance projects, but it's not quite where I want or need to be. I don't know what the answer is, and hesitate to talk about it too much, but part of what I'm doing here is exploring ideas for ways that I can finally make a living, contribute to the world, and use my skills in something that involves textiles, after spending nearly 15 years mostly working in the organic foods industry and somewhat cut off from my creative self.

 
 

I have a lot of expertise and passion for the principles of the organic foods movement, but sadly it has felt like a dry well for me for quite some time, though it has given me a grounding in issues very relevant to sustainable textiles and apparel. I've had a lot of false starts with art and textiles, so now it is past time to get serious, and I am ready and eager to find work that I really love, whether editorial, entrepreneurial, communicating, designing, getting an advanced degree and teaching, other, or all of the above. There really is no going back. (And if you are interested, my resume is linked in the sidebar.) So -- path forward -- dare I say clear eyes, full heart, can't lose, for my fellow Friday Night Lights fans.

Readers, when it comes to creating, how do you find focus? I love art quilts, bead embroidery, painting, garment sewing, and more -- I love to make beautiful and meaningful things. Art quilter Lisa Call says to affirm that there is enough time, but do you think it's more important to follow one muse, or work with a broad range of techniques? Is that the difference between the artist and the hobbyist -- the ability to leave a hundred shiny objects behind and focus on one path? For me the danger has always been doing nothing when presented with too many possibilities and choices; at the same time everything feels connected and enticing. In some ways this relates to the fantastic comment threads on Craft 2.0 and Slow Cloth -- I appreciate the stimulating discussion so much, and thank all of you who commented.

Many of us are surely torn between making art that would properly be shown in a gallery and doing things with more practical, and even marketable, applications. Lately I've found myself surfing through sites of artisan fabrics, many hand-printed, primarily for interiors. Textile print design is a whole area of specialization all its own, considered a decorative art, and a rich and world-enhancing one. Prints and patterns can have so much charm, or whimsy, or sophistication, or tribal expression. Enjoy these links, and come back soon for more ideas, thoughts, and updates on work and projects.

  • Galbraith & Paul in Philadelphia creates beautiful, modern hand-printed textiles. I've taken note of them before and was reminded of them at Fibercopia. This is called Spring Garden:
                    Spring Garden                             

  • Bird Textile is an Australian company focused on sustainability. It's not letting me pick up an image, but visit their cool site.
  • My friend Harmony at Harmony Art creates beautiful designs on organic cotton and has a great blog; she's interested in working more with quilters and artists, and is speaking at the sold-out SAQA/SDA Breaking New Ground conference in April in Philadelphia. You can buy her fabrics by the yard at Near Sea Naturals.  Visit her site -- I'm having no luck with images today.

February 01, 2008

Slow Cloth Inspiration, February 1

I was doing a Google search for khadi -- the homespun cotton that Ghandi wore and promoted -- and came across the wonderful Fibercopia blog. Author Arcadia is an interior designer; she has an incredible eye for beautiful and interesting textiles from all over the world, and a ton of knowledge.

Rowland and Chinami Ricketts are masters of natural dyeing and traditional techniques at RickettsIndigo. Visit their site full of stunning work -- you will not be able to navigate away (but do -- come back here!). I'm in love with this piece:

Untitled Obi Yardage, 2002, indigo and charcoal dyed hemp kibira, paste resist

and saw echoes of it the next day at the Denver Art Museum's show of Color Field paintings.

Back to interiors, John Robshaw Textiles is a commercial enterprise very much in the Slow Cloth spirit. From the Web site, here is the mission statement:

Our mission is to create original, handcrafted textiles from around the world. John Robshaw Textiles employs traditional printing, dying and weaving techniques, while reinterpreting them in ways that respect the integrity of the method to create original textiles. Every textile represents a story, a drawing of an adventure in a far–off place–from Yogakarta to Rajasthan, Bolivia to Vietnam. Arriving at textiles from painting and printmaking, I am interested in the mistakes, overlapping prints and the miss-registrations of woodblocks that record the human hand.

I'm guessing that these very beautiful pillows and bedding are out of my price range for now, but the spirit of this artistry and design is contagious. I found him through VivaTerra, where you can buy some of these objects.

The incredible multimedia and quilt artist Deidre Adams has started a blog; I'm very inspired by her technique of quilting, then painting the quilted surface.

Finally, for today at least, I'm enchanted by the sustainably-produced fabrics at Bird Textile --  "Australia's first climate neutral business."  If you love textile design and are interested in what's being done in environmentally friendlier fibers, take a look.

With the new year off to a strange start, I have not yet finished my Take It Further textile art challenge piece for January -- I don't think I'm alone, but I'm not very happy about my unfinished projects. Time to work harder and smarter.

January 27, 2008

Betsy Ross Would Be Proud

I've been supporting John Edwards in the primaries, but that doesn't keep me from feeling the thrill of possibility with Barack Obama, or the immense satisfaction of seeing a strong, smart woman as a serious presidential candidate. I'm a fan of Bill Richardson too -- I hope he ends up with a meaningful position in a Democratic administration next year.

I'd been wondering if any of the candidates had a connection to textiles or craft when I visited Kyra's Black Threads blog -- she has a link to Fiber Artists for Obama. And we know that John Edwards's father worked in a textile mill, and he talks eloquently about the demise of domestic textile production. Any other connections to textile art or garments? I don't think we'll see Hillary admitting to any needle arts -- too loaded for her -- but maybe if they win, Bill as First Mate  will continue to expand the White House collection of American crafts that Hillary began in 1993.

Or maybe he'll pick up the knitting or quilting needle himself -- it'd be good for his heart and keep him out of trouble, right? How about it, Bill? Take up the Slow Cloth cause and promote and protect the work of fiber artists around the globe and sustainability in textiles. Call me if you need some help.

Or maybe Obama will win and really bring attention to the contribution of African-American artists to our culture. In textiles, there's the Gee's Bend quilters, and much more. Faith Ringgold is one of our elder godmothers of contemporary quilting, and her work is spectactular, political and inspiring. I am also a huge fan of multimedia artist Betye Saar.

I had the pleasure of meeting Betye Saar once, when I worked at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago and she and her daughter Alison Saar had a joint exhibition. In the main gallery Julian Schnabel had an exhibition that was suffocating in its own art-world egotism and posturing. The Saars had a much smaller gallery and an absolute jewel of a show that quietly played second fiddle to Mr. Schnabel. But their authenticity, integrity and spirit was so immense that for me it far overshadowed the big whoop in the main gallery. The Saars gave me an unforgettable lesson about the meaning of making art versus "success" in the art world, and also about using culture and gender references in art in an effective and unapologetic way.

I thought one of my recent magazines also had reviews of African-American textile arts books, but my highly refined controlled-chaos organizational system is failing me. I'll find it. Meanwhile, the magazine stack is getting bigger. My new issues of Selvedge (No. 21, The Responsibility Issue) and Surface Design (Winter 2008, Structured Surfaces) came yesterday -- both breathtaking. I think Selvedge integrates its graphic design and its content better than anybody to produce a truly extraordinary, appetizing, collectable journal. And it totally, totally makes me want to move to England for a year or two to immerse myself in the textile world there.  

Surface Design editor Patricia Malarcher has tremendous authority and impeccable, sophisticated taste and intelligence, as well as being an artist herself, and her voice and sensibilities make this magazine extremely valuable too. In this new issue, my first stop will be the article on artist Yvonne Morton, who is inspired by textile arts of the Congo -- this is truly a Slow Cloth artist all the way.

Over on Beading at the Beach, BeadBabe49 questions meditation and stitching, and whether other artists talk about it and recognize it. I thought of her when I read Patricia Malarcher's editorial in Surface Design. She quotes Lenore Tawney: "I'm not just patiently doing it. It's done with devotion." Patricia goes on to say:

The sense of devotion embedded in structure is a subliminal text that is frequently visible in artworks of fibrous materials. The incremental repetitive gestures that accumulate into woven, knotted, looped, wrapped, or pieced-together surfaces leave evidence of quiet, and quieting, time dedicated to making.

Through that sense of quiet and meditative process, we can emerge and give our work a strong and passionate voice.

December 24, 2007

Oh Lord, Please Don't Let Me Be Misunderstood

This is a long, talky post, but here we go. Remember that song by The Animals? "I'm just a soul whose intentions are good . . ." The online discussion about Slow Cloth has taken on a remarkable life of its own. A lot of the comments refer back to this blog, and I'm experiencing the full power of the Internet to take an idea and expand it -- and also to alter it. I think it's wonderful that this idea intrigues people. But how on earth did anyone get the idea that the spirit of Slow Cloth is hand-stitching vs. machine-stitching?

  • In my own particular version of Slow Cloth, it has absolutely nothing to do with hand vs. machine stitching, how long it takes to complete a project, or any other kind of my-way-is-better-than-yours hierarchy of creativity. It's about celebrating, respecting, protecting and supporting culturally expressive textile traditions in communities all over the world, and allowing those traditions to inform the work of today, whether as artists, artisans, designers, clothing or textile manufacturers, collectors, travelers or hobbyists.
  • It's also, for me, about environmentally appropriate and sustainable principles and right use of resources, including human resources.
  • It's about art, beauty, design, vision, creativity and authenticity.
  • As to the question about whether it's a movement or whether there is some formal structure to this, why the heck not? Anything is possible. I'm  a writer and editor as well as an artist, and I have all kinds of ideas about a magazine. For those of you who can go this far back with me, the original version of Threads magazine by Taunton Press comes to mind as a model. I have the premiere issue from 1983 and it has articles about improvisational embroidery, spinning, tapestry, natural dyes, shisha mirrors, knitting -- it explored every possible idea about fiber and was a cornucopia of inspirational riches. Selvedge, as mentioned, is another fabulous magazine in the Slow Cloth spirit, though less technique-focused than original-recipe Threads.
  • And yes, I can certainly envision a membership organization that has all kinds of possibilities, and I may very well start one!

So for those of you who interpreted the phrase "slow cloth" as going back to hand-piecing by the fire or darning socks or embroidering samplers, that's certainly not what I have in mind for this blog, at least, or whatever I develop to go with it. More links that I think exemplify the spirit of Slow Cloth:

There is an awesomely creative worldwide textile community to be celebrated. We can all learn from each other and make beautiful things and keep all these masterful methods of design and expression and cultural individuation alive and well in the 21st century. "Slow" has come to suggest an alternative to a system that prioritizes efficiency, cheapness, sameness and speed at the expense of quality and  authenticity. Maybe there's a better phrase or label for this concept than Slow Cloth, or maybe not.

And who am I to do this? Just a human who's passionate about textiles and the ways we make and use them. I've been sewing and knitting for more than four decades, as well as making quilts, beadwork, embroidery, you name it. I have a degree in painting, printmaking and fine arts. I've edited books on knitting and embroidery and written about textile artists. I have made my living for quite some time as a writer, editor and expert in the organic foods world, and some of the dynamics I've learned in and of that movement inform what I'm saying here. I've worked in an art museum, assisted a commercial silk painter, dyed and embellished costumes for a regional theater company, made things -- art, crafts, and utilitarian objects -- all my life.

I can't imagine my life without this creative facility, and yet fewer and fewer people are introduced to this kind of creation; instead they are educated from a very early age to be passive consumers. Our world is richer for the textile arts, and my idea of Slow Cloth and my Red Thread Studio blog here is a way of participating in that richness. (By the way, there is apparently a wonderful gallery called Red Thread Studio in Virginia; we are not affiliated, but you can find them here.)

Comments are welcome and wanted; have at it. And just to prove that I'm not above a little machine-stitched craft whimsy myself, here's a scissors caddy I made for a friend from a Frogscissorholder1McCalls pattern -- the kind of lofty art that many of us find ourselves working on at Christmastime:

Have a LOVELY, PEACEFUL AND SAFE holiday.

December 05, 2007

Athena's Web

I'd like to pay homage to some of the goddesses of textile blogging who have really inspired me, the well-worn bookmarks that set a standard for the rest. I don't really know what this blog will become, but these are some I look to for their focus, knowledge and warmth, and highly recommend as a core online library for the textile community.

  • Dijanne Cevaal's blog, Musings of a Textile Itinerant, is a gorgeous showcase of her work, her multicultural inspiration, her thoughtful process, and her tenacious pursuit of the artist's life.
  • Serena Fenton's Layers of Meaning is not updated as frequently as some others, but every entry is a gem of inspiration and beauty.
  • Kay and Ann of Mason-Dixon Knitting have justifiably earned fame in the knitting and blogging world. Their wit and geniality is unsurpassed. Whatever they're drinking, I need some.
  • Sharon B's In A Minute Ago is the mother of all textile blogs; Sharon is Australian, a crazy quilter, an educator by nature and a pioneer in creating a global Internet community and using the resources of the Web.
My Photo

Professional Background/Resume

Books and Reports by Elaine Lipson

Selected Articles by Elaine Lipson

Elaine's 10 Qualities of Slow Cloth

  • Joy
    Slow Cloth has the possibility of joy in the process. In other words, the journey matters as much as the destination.
  • Contemplation
    Slow Cloth offers the quality of meditation or contemplation in the process.
  • Skill
    Slow Cloth involves skill and has the possibility of mastery.
  • Diversity
    Slow Cloth acknowledges the rich diversity and multicultural history of textile art.
  • Teaching
    Slow Cloth honors its teachers and lineage even in its most contemporary expressions.
  • Materials
    Slow Cloth is thoughtful in its use of materials and respects their source.
  • Quality
    Slow Cloth artists, designers, crafters and artisans want to make things that last and are well-made.
  • Beauty
    It's in the eye of the beholder, yes, but it's in our nature to reach for beauty and create it where we can.
  • Community
    Slow Cloth supports community by sharing knowledge and respecting relationships.
  • Expression
    Slow Cloth is expressive of individuals and/or cultures. The human creative force is reflected and evident in the work.