Quilting-Traditional

July 06, 2008

Quilts of Soul, Strength and Scarcity

I saw the exhibition Gee's Bend: The Architecture of the Quilt at the Denver Art Museum yesterday. This is not the same exhibition of quilts that appeared in 2003 at the Whitney Museum, inspiring critic Michael Kimmelman in the New York Times to call them "some of the most miraculous works of modern art that America has produced." Those quilts have since appeared on postage stamps, among other things, and made the Gee's Bend quilting style famous. But the quilters, the spirit and the story are the same.

It's the story that makes these works astounding. From an artistic viewpoint, they are all visually arresting; some are more successful than others. A few quilts are incredibly dynamic, with colors and shapes making an inventive, harmonious whole enhanced by the raw stitching, exposed knots and uneven binding that reveal the maker's hand. Some are more jarring. Most quilt artists today would probably attempt to develop more refined techniques, unless they were self-consciously trying to imitate this style.

But these women, until recently, were not aiming to be quilt artists, selling in galleries and exhibiting in museums, and could hardly imagine that possibility. They were trying to inject some creative salvation into the task of keeping their families warm in lives of the most abject poverty in this great but sometimes unjust country.

The town of Gee's Bend is isolated on three sides by the Alabama River, with limited access on the fourth side. Its residents are African-American, descended from slaves, and historically subjected to every injustice thereof --  a ferry service was shut down in 1962 to prevent the townspeople from registering to vote, not resuming until two years ago, and education and opportunity was minimal at best. In Wilcox County today, almost half of children under 18 live below the poverty line.

The characteristic Gee's Bend quilting style emerged and evolved in this insulated community, passed down through the generations. The quilts are made from used clothes and fabrics, many using a simple Housetop or partial Log Cabin block, others with a more random structure. Fabric pieces tend to be large, or as large as repurposed used clothing (or corduroy scraps from Sears, Roebuck & Co.) would allow, and few of the quilts are squared off; some have binding on one or two sides only; the quilting stitches follow crooked, curved or bending lines and the stitches are big by quilting standards. They were made quickly to be used quickly, for warmth in unheated rooms. Yet the women took the time and had the spirit and imagination to make creative choices, often dramatic and unexpected and playful.

To see these quilts on the walls of an elegant museum gave me some cognitive dissonance, because they reverberate with this story of scarcity few of us could overcome, and strength that most of us would be hard-pressed to find; it's in every stitch. This story is in many patchwork quilts, but it is especially poignant here. It's also a story of joy and creativity and the deep relations that have held this community together.

Today, thankfully, many of the Gee's Bend quilters have benefited from the popularity of the quilts, though there have been some lawsuits regarding payments, intellectual property rights and licensing agreements. I was moved by the story of one woman who stopped quilting for 20 years because of illness and depression, overcome by a life harder than I can imagine. When the Gee's Bend quilts were "discovered" and began to sell and return some benefits to the women, her despondency also began to life, and she was able to stitch again.

A book on display at the exhibition said that she had prayed all her life that her last years would be her best years. She felt that her prayers had been answered.

March 29, 2008

Quiltapalooza: International Quilt Study Center Opens

The new building for the International Quilt Study Center opens Sunday (March 30) in Lincoln, Neb., with an opening exhibition by Nancy Crow. I'm very excited about this (and had hoped to be there this week), as I have a dear brother and my most awesome niece and two supreme nephews in Lincoln.

On my last visit, I sat in on a conversation consisting of two hours discussing the fooIntlquiltcentertball team -- on which the University spends many, many millions of dollars every year -- followed by grumbling about the $12 million in private funds spent on this innovative building. One particular person didn't think anyone would care about quilts, and that the Center wouldn't bring prestige or dollars to Lincoln.

It's unfortunate that the Quilt Center has to be up against this kind of thinking, and I have to say I heartily disagree and I hope this man will be proven very wrong. This is a world-class addition to Lincoln, a brilliant and forward-looking tribute to the Midwest and American quilting heritage, and worth a visit or many; if you're on a cross-country road trip involving Interstate 80, this is where you definitely want to make a stop. Other quilt exhibitions and events are also taking place in Lincoln this week, including a show opening April 4 at the Lux Center for the Arts curated by artist and blogger  Lisa Call with quilts by Lisa, Deidre Adams, and others.

(click to enlarge photo)

January 25, 2008

Slow Cloth, Fashion Design, and Garment Sewing

Can fashion fit into the Slow Cloth concept? How about home garment sewing? I say -- absolutely yes to both. While most of the people who have visited and commented and linked to this blog (thank you all so much) are textile artists, there are related and overlapping communities -- people in the fashion and home textiles industries,  and people who just love to sew garments and approach sewing from a perspective of craftsmanship, quality, and creativity.

There is art in every craft and craft in every art. As someone who loves garment sewing as well as other textile arts, the only conflict I see is how to best use limited time and resources and not get lost in dilettante-ishness.

On the commercial fashion side, I've been reading up on the Slow Fashion movement as part of my research on the sustainable apparel market. In addition to using environmentally appropriate materials and eliminating abusive labor practices, Slow Fashion also rejects the trend-focused planned obsolescence that has driven the fashion industry for decades. Slow Fashion emphasizes lasting design and craftsmanship, so you can buy fewer clothes with a longer life. Design and color palettes are compatible from season to season, so you can build a wardrobe instead of replacing everything in an increasingly rapid and wasteful cycle. Brand loyalty and quality replace quantity.

Last week, this review of  several men's fashion shows appeared in the New York Times. As always, fashion writer Cathy Horyn's analysis is perceptive and intellectually challenging. In "It Never Hurts to Quote the Classics," she talks about designers referencing  handcrafts and focusing on craftsmanship while also creating entirely modern garments.

There are no specific shout-outs here to Slow Fashion or sustainable apparel, but throughout the fashion design and garment industry this shift seems to be taking place. Admittedly, it's much less of a stretch to talk about classic design and craft in men's clothing, which has always been less exploitative than women's fashion. But still, it seemed noteworthy.

A little closer to a textile artist's heart is Alabama Chanin, a true Slow Cloth company. From their site:

Here, in Florence, Alabama, quilting and textiles have long been part of our history. So instead of sourcing our manufacturing far away, we have chosen to utilize the skills and knowledge of local artisans, who hand sew every garment. We sew by hand not because we don’t like technology, but because we choose to preserve these living arts. Modern concepts, coupled with old-time stitching techniques, not only strengthen the bond between our past and present; they also have the unique power to create beautiful, one-of-a-kind garments that are infused with care. Despite this nod to the past, our designs are modern; some are sexy, others are modest, all are comfortable and made for living. We use new and recycled materials in a way that showcase quality of cut, attention to detail and the artistry of the hands that created them.

Founder Natalie Chanin previously founded Project Alabama, a company with a similar mission. She sold the company and now Project Alabama products are made in India. But it looks like things turned out all right for Chanin, and her new company looks inspiring.

So whether you're a fashion designer, a dedicated follower of fashion or a home garment sewer, or both, there is plenty of room to incorporate textile traditions and skills, be innovative and forward-thinking, and conscious in approach. There's a lot of inspiration out there. Let me know your thoughts and ideas about this, and have a lovely, creative weekend. I'll be working on my sustainable apparel research and my blogroll . . .

January 20, 2008

What Is Novel Is What We Have Not Seen And Heard Before

There is a wonderful tutorial on sashiko at the Purl Bee blog. This Japanese craft has elements of quilting and of a very ordered embroidery; the thread is heavier than Western quilting thread, no frame or hoop is used, and traditional stitching patterns are geometric and symmetrical. Mari explains the process in detail with wonderful and very helpful photographs.

According to Nancy Shriber in her lovely Sashiko Handbags 14 On 14 book,

Sashiko was originally designed as a mending technique to quilt together several layers of fabric for warmth and durability or for strengthening a single layer of fabric. Like quilting in America, sashiko had humble beginnings. The Japanese have been doing sashiko for practical sewing purposes since the early 18th century. It was developed as a way to recycle fabric and to extend the life of the garment. Sashiko is a running stitch sewn in repeating or interlocking patterns through one or more layers of fabric. As with many art forms, most of the stitch designs are simplified representations of things found in nature such as plants, birds, and clouds.

Visit Nancy's Contemporary Sashiko Web site gallery -- she has instructions there for this beautiful, simple wallet/checkbook cover as an introduction to contemporary sashiko:

project 001

Despite its humble beginnings, as with other Japanese crafts, sashiko is a beautiful form with infinite levels of skill and subtlety. In the United States we tend to want to make everything quick and easy and oversimplified -- and at the same time, create products to sell  that may not be necessary or even desirable to the heart of the practice.

As a result, sometimes the beauty and nuance of textile traditions are really lost on us. For instance: As I was searching around for information on sashiko, I came across this site on the Akan Cultural Symbols Project via Quilt Ethnic. In the Akan culture in Ghana, traditional cloth is woven to communicate with a rich and specific language -- here's one pattern from the site:

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EMAA DA - NOVELTY

               

Symbol of     EXPERIENTIAL KNOWLEDGE, CREATIVITY, NOVELTY, and INNOVATION
From the proverb:  Dea emmaa da eno ne dea yennhunu na yennte bi da. 
Literal translation: 
What  is novel is what we have not seen and heard before

Now, I know I've seen similar African fabrics and have only seen color and pattern, with no idea about the rich conveyance of concepts, messages, language and communication woven into the cloth by master artisans. This richness and meaning exists in textiles from so many cultures. This is part of the Slow Cloth approach: respecting the significance -- as well as enjoying the beauty -- of world textiles.

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Professional Background/Resume

Books and Reports by Elaine Lipson

Selected Articles by Elaine Lipson

Elaine's 10 Qualities of Slow Cloth

  • Joy
    Slow Cloth has the possibility of joy in the process. In other words, the journey matters as much as the destination.
  • Contemplation
    Slow Cloth offers the quality of meditation or contemplation in the process.
  • Skill
    Slow Cloth involves skill and has the possibility of mastery.
  • Diversity
    Slow Cloth acknowledges the rich diversity and multicultural history of textile art.
  • Teaching
    Slow Cloth honors its teachers and lineage even in its most contemporary expressions.
  • Materials
    Slow Cloth is thoughtful in its use of materials and respects their source.
  • Quality
    Slow Cloth artists, designers, crafters and artisans want to make things that last and are well-made.
  • Beauty
    It's in the eye of the beholder, yes, but it's in our nature to reach for beauty and create it where we can.
  • Community
    Slow Cloth supports community by sharing knowledge and respecting relationships.
  • Expression
    Slow Cloth is expressive of individuals and/or cultures. The human creative force is reflected and evident in the work.